Autosealer WB

May 12, 2011

New Product Information

 

For Those Who Missed The Bumper Bonanza…..

 

It has been an issue that the Chase Tech’s and Akzo Representatives have been addressing for some time now: Bumpers That Wrinkle. Our recent bumper clinic focused on a remedy to this issue with a new product from Sikkens.

 

Sikkens Autosealer WB has been introduced, and will be available very soon, to help address the issues with aftermarket/remanufactured bumper covers, as well as any sensitive substrates that a Technician may come across!

 

Sikkens Autosealer WB is a water based sealer that is suitable for all Sikkens refinish procedures. It can be used on all substrates, including SMALL AREAS of bare metal. There is no need to mix two sealers for different parts of the same job! (Please see TDS for full details).

 

Mixing of Autosealer WB is simple: Add 10-20% Autowave 666, and 10% Autowave WB Activator, and you are ready to spray! You can also TINT your sealer by substituting the 666 with any Autowave solid color toner (except 245). Reduce as normal, and carry on!

 

Spraying is simple, and very similar to the application of Colorbuild Plus 250. Flash times are similar, but in the cases of high humidity, your normal hand held blowers can be utilized to speed up the flash!

 

More information can be found on Autosealer WB at http://www.globalsafetynet.com/akzonobel/pdfs/akzo_376_english.pdf or, of course, by contacting one of your local Chase Auto Body Supplies Tech Department Staff, Or Bill Dombek and Tom Edwards of Akzo Nobel.

 

We are all very excited about this new product from Sikkens, and can’t wait for our customers to try it and realize the benefits!

 

-Al Dolynchuk

Technical Manager

Chase Auto Body Supplies

adolynchuk@colorcompass.com

 

Bumper Color Matching

March 19, 2011

Why Don’t Our Bumpers Match The Car??

Over the past several years, a very obvious trend has arisen in which bumpers (and other plastic parts such as door handles and mirror heads) show a very visible “off color” match when compared to the main body.  These off colors are apparent from the point of manufacture, and deemed acceptable, even to the point of a customer purchasing the vehicle. It is our job as technicians, it seems, to make the colors even BETTER than what was acceptable upon manufacture, or point of sale. Not always an easy task.

In order to have satisfied customers, all parties involved (vehicle owner, shop manager, paint staff) need to understand why we see mismatches on plastic parts. Both when brand new, as well as after body shop repairs.

Mismatches on “New” Cars

Most commonly, the mismatches we see on brand new vehicles is a result of outsourcing. Although a car may be assembled in one facility, it does not necessarily mean that the “bolt on” parts come from the same plant as the main body. One facility may be using a different paint manufacturer, different equipment, or operating in a climate that is substantially different than the other plant.  In today’s colors, these differences can easily account perceived color match issues.

The actual color or “pigment” may not be the root cause of the color issue either. Believe it or not, variations in clear coats can cause the same issue. This not only speaks to the clarity of a clear coat product, but also to the film thickness, and texture (orange peel) of the coating.

Sometimes even the best of color matches will create a perceived mismatch. As cars become sleeker and complex in design, panels are lining up at odd angles to each other. Our eyes are now looking at two facets of a color at the very same time (one face on, one at the flip), and the difference is apparent. **Note: General Motors have actually issued a Service Bulletin (ID2346049) regarding this phenomenon on the 2010 Camaro door to quarter panel. **

Mismatches In The Paint Shop

In the Paint Shop, the car is painted all at the same time, in the same facility, same gun, same air pressure, same color mixture, same temperature, same EVERYTHING, yet we will STILL see a color mismatch on our bumpers. It is the ultimate in frustration, but there are reasons for this phenomenon as well.

Plastic bumpers will hold a static charge when compared to sheet metal, and will accept pigments and metallics differently. The metallics will orient themselves differently than on the sheet metal.

Another factor is the temperature of the substrates in question. Plastic and metal will accept and retain heat at different rates. If the metal is hotter than the bumper, the color will look darker (and vice versa).

Finally, there is a factor that can be corrected, and that is to mount the bumper in a position that is similar to how it sits on the car. Meaning, don’t lay bumpers “flat” on a stand, spray “with the grain” of the bumper. There are many effective and affordable bumper stands on the market that make it easy to spray a bumper in an “upright” position. Further to that, it is physically less demanding on the Technician who is spraying the bumper.

Proving Your Point To A Customer

With virtually no confrontation, a customer can easily see the color match issues on today’s cars by perusing a Dealership lot, or even a mall parking lot.

Most customers will see with ease that these color issues are everywhere, and they likely purchased their vehicle with color mismatches, but never noticed it until being properly and politely informed.

That being said, before a Shop takes on a job, it is pertinent to do a thorough “walk around”, and point out and existing color issues to the customer PRIOR to starting
 

Words from the Wise

March 2, 2011

Simple Tips for Collision Facility Success

By Mark Cordileone- Sales Manager Chase Auto Body Supplies Ltd

 

1)   Change your Hose – rubber airlines in your booth break down over time due to being baked over and over again. Black particulate starts showing up in your paint jobs – Replace your air hose in the booth and use it in the shop. It is far cheaper than repainting the job.

 

2)   Work with your Sales Representative to establish a proper paint and material inventory level. Running out of products cost your facility time and time is primarily what you sell, not materials.

 

3) A clean shop is a happy shop!  Clean, well equipped shops attract professional employees and portray a professional image to your Cliental.

 

4)   4) Establish a Maintenance Schedule – a proactive approach to maintenance eliminates unforeseen surprises and breakdowns. Schedule maintenance for compressors, spray booth and filters, welders, jacks, frame equipment, and compressed air filtration.

 

5)   5) Verify colour before the car goes into the booth. The booth is the most expensive piece of real estate in your facility. Use booth time optimally by making sure you have the car ready and colour verified and mixed prior to the car being placed in the booth.

 

6)   6) Scheduling – Bring all the cars in Monday and make sure everything is out by Friday – WRONG !!  Bringing a week's worth of work in Monday and having it sit outside is not efficient. By doing this painters will stand around Monday morning waiting for work to come from the body shop and Body techs will have little to do Friday afternoon as cars get completed. Bringing work in each day, ensures there is work for everyone all the time and rental car bills are controlled. Get the most out of your week!

 

PPS REAL LIFE APPLICATION

February 5, 2011

In my short time in sales I am starting to recognize why some products are more popular than others. Sikkens Auto Wave is the most obvious example of this to me as Akzo was ready for the advent of water and showed up to the dance prepared. Their products (primer, sealer, base, and clear) all work, are relatively quick, cover well, and the paint matches. It also comes with a full support system which takes a lot of the pressure off the shop.

Another product that seems to be very popular in both large and small shops is the PPS system from 3M. I know that many shops do not use this system and have opted instead for the Five Star plastic cup and strainer set up. I was curious as to the reason why, so I decided to ask some questions and conduct a little bit of research.

The first question I asked was why some customers would make this decision. The answer I received was that PPS is incredibly expensive as compared to a FSP cup. I checked and found this to be true. A single litre FSP cup costs .43 cents while a PPS cup costs $1.99.  No brainer here I thought. Considering a shop could use a large quantity of these in a day, an extra $1.56 a cup would add up. I thought this fact alone was probably a good enough reason not to use PPS cups regardless of how convenient they are.

That being said I decided to investigate this a little further and apply some of the aspects of PPS and try and come up with a dollar figure to represent some of it's product and time saving features. One of the main things I was interested in was the loss of paint due to surface contact. I became painfully aware of this phenomenon when I had to explain product loss in the Chase paint room. Surface contact loss is how much paint becomes waste due to it sticking to the sides of the container it is in. In my experience, I have often seen 10% product loss due to this fact. When you are dealing with expensive water paint this loss can be quite dramatic.

The difference between using PPS and a conventional cup and strainer are as follows. When using the PPS system you mix the paint in the PPS liner and then spray it. There is only one instance of surface contact loss. The conventional plastic cup and strainer system is a little different. You mix the paint in a cup; pour it through a strainer into another cup and then spray. There are basically three instances when surface contact loss happens. These being: the first cup, the strainer, and then the spray gun cup. The question I wanted to answer was, “How much paint am I actually losing, and how much is it costing me?”

I decided to quantify this loss of paint by conducting an actual test in the Chase tech center. It seemed pretty straightforward. I would weigh the amount of paint lost to contact and then add it to the price of either the PPS or plastic cup. My results were a little bit startling.  Using 800 grams of Auto Wave with a cost of $100.00 the results were as follows.

1.       Cost of using PPS = $1.99 (cup) + $3.20 (paint loss) = $5.19

2.       Cost of using Five Star Cup and strainer = .43 (cup) + 3.20 (paint loss cup 1) + 1.95 (paint loss strainer) + 3.20 (paint loss cup 2) + .17 (strainer) = $ 8.95

I was hoping to also factor in things like: gun cleaning time, gun wash use, and waste disposal but I did not take it to this level after seeing my results. It would only increase an already dramatic number. The results were equally dramatic when dealing with smaller quantities of paint. The dollar figure was smaller but the percentage was fairly constant.

I am not sure if my explanation makes sense to you but I would like you to consider giving me a chance to show you how I came up with this information in your own shop. The 5+ dollar saving per use of PPS far outweighs the extra $1.56 it costs to purchase it.     

 

CATCHING THE WAVE

December 17, 2009

Let's get this tech blog started with some FAQ about Autowave.

What if the first coat of Autowave already covers?

 If Autowave solid colors cover in one coat, no additional second coat needs to be applied and the minimum layer thickness is reached (0.4 – 0.9 mils / 12-25 μm). If Autowave metallic colors cover in one coat, apply the final orientation coat, in the case of the first coat did not show too much mottling effect. In the case of mottling in the first coat, apply a second intermediate coat followed by the orientation (drop) coat.

 

What happens if I apply the drop coat (metallic orientation/mist coat) into the wet Autowave paint film?

The drop coat (metallic orientation/mist coat) will sink in the wet basecoat layer previously applied; no effect/contribution from this coat becomes visible. Always apply this drop coat over a fully dried Autowave layer.

 

What if the air or object temperature is too low (winter conditions)?

Optimum results will be achieved when Autowave is applied at 75°F (25°C). It is advised that spraybooth, car and paint are acclimatized for these circumstances.

Further information can be found at http://www.sikkens.net/store/65394/autowave/AW_FAQ.pdf

 

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